Radio Shack TRS-80 Model 100: Difference between revisions

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=== Introduction to The Model 100 and Variants ===
{{WikipediaInfo|URL=https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TRS-80_Model_100|Article Name=TRS-80 Model 100}}{{DeviceAlerts}}{{InfoboxDevice
The TRS-80 Model 100 is a Tandy Corporation 8-bit portable computer released in 1983. It is actually a rebranded '''Kyotronic 85''' designed and produced by '''Kyocera''' for the early 80s Japanese computer market, but the most popular SKU of this machine by far is the Tandy / Radio Shack version. It was a very successful model for Tandy, selling over 6 million units, no doubt due to its compact & portable size, excellent keyboard, built-in modem, and the fact that it runs on standard AA batteries. As a vintage computer, it is still widely available on the used computer market (e.g. eBay), and still sought-after for its charm, size, portability, usability, and "fun factor." In fact, with readily-available non-destructive modifications, the computer can be expanded greatly beyond its original capabilities and can even run CP/M v2.2!
{{WikipediaInfoAlt|https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TRS-80_Model_100}}
=== Do This First, and Always ===
Regardless of the operating condition of the computer, the original internal Ni-Cd battery ''must'' be removed and/or replaced to ensure the motherboard is not eventually damaged by battery leakage. Even though it's usually a good quality battery, and even if it's not currently leaking and/or seems to be working well, it's very old. It's usually just a matter of time before it fails or leaks. The acid from a leaking Ni-Cd will most certainly destroy nearby components and traces. It can just be removed if no replacement is desired. The computer will still work with no replacement battery installed, but since this battery is used to keep the internal memory from being wiped (there is no internal hard drive or other non-volatile storage beyond the memory chips) when replacing the main AA batteries, for best results it is recommended you replace it with a new Ni-Cd or Ni-MH battery of equivalent size, capacity, and voltage. See "Replacing The Ni-Cd Battery," below.
=== Quick Troubleshooting and Quirks ===
The Model 100 has a few interesting quirks that often confuse those inexperienced with it. Here are some notes about use, quirks, and basic troubleshooting.
* The unit will not power on when the "Memory Power" switch is off, regardless of the position of the "Power" switch. Since the computer does not include any built-in non-volatile storage, the internal memory of the device is continuously powered by the batteries. The internal Ni-Cd battery is used to "keep alive" the memory for a while (1 to 3 weeks, depending on the memory configuration) when the AA batteries are being replaced or are dead or removed. You can find the "Memory Power" switch on the underside of the computer near the AA battery compartment.
* Even if the internal Ni-Cd battery is non-functional or removed, the computer will still work, but you must still make sure the "Memory Power" switch is on or it won't power up. Just know that if the AA batteries go dead or are removed (and the computer is not using an AC adapter), the entire memory of the computer will be erased if there is no Ni-Cd or equivalent battery on board. All programs and data previously stored on it will disappear and the computer will be returned to a "factory reset" condition upon restoration of power.
* An AC adapter (6v, 200mAh) will power the device in place of AA batteries, but there are a couple of quirks to be aware of:
** If you're not using the original AC power supply that originally came with the device, note that the barrel plug requirement for this computer is "center-negative," which is a non-standard plug type.
** You can use a power supply of slightly higher voltage, but since the computer has an internal DC to DC power supply/conversion circuit and transformer, make sure to keep it at or below 8v so as not to damage the circuit over time. In tests, it seems the computer requires at least ~5.5v to power up.
* The 40x8 character (240x64 pixel) LCD is not often prone to complete failure, but individual columns or groups of pixels failing to appear can be a sign that some of the LCD circuitry or driver chips are faulty or damaged. However, it can also be a sign that the unit is receiving insufficient power or uneven power regulation - usually caused by a failing Ni-Cd or failing electrolytic capacitors. If the LCD or its driver circuitry is faulty, though, unfortunately replacements are very tough to find and the repair/replacement process is relatively difficult. See notes about the LCD in the "Solutions & Repairs" section below.
* Note that the LCD's "DISP" adjustment control (rotary dial near the power switch) not only adjusts the brightness of the pixels/screen, but it also adjusts the ''viewing angle''. You will need to continually adjust it to best suit whatever position you're viewing it from if you move around while using the computer.
* The 9 pin male D-subminiature port on the left side of the computer (when viewed from the front) will fit an Atari-style joystick, but it is NOT a joystick or mouse port. It was designed for a barcode reader, specifically the sold-separately Tandy 26-1183 "Digital Wand" accessory. Some of this computer's common use cases back in the day were inventory/materials tracking and data entry.
* The computer does work with common Tandy or Tandy-compatible peripheral devices of the era, including the Tandy cassette drives, standard cassette recorders, and Tandy Portable Disk Drives (TPDD and TPDD2). There was even a docking peripheral for this device with an external monitor/terminal interface. However, the connections to these devices are proprietary or industry non-standard and these devices come with quirks of their own. This article will not cover troubleshooting of these use cases.
* The RS232C port is EIA standard, but it's the non-standard female 25 pin (DB-25S) connector type, requiring a female-to-female adapter for use with non-proprietary serial port gear. It can be converted down to work with devices requiring 9 pin D-subminiature connections with standard 25-pin to 9-pin adapters or cables. Depending on the application, it may require a null-modem type of adapter as well.
{{DeviceAlerts}}
{{InfoboxDevice
|Title = TRS-80 Model 100
|Title = TRS-80 Model 100
|Picture =  
|Picture =Radio Shack TRS-80 Model 100 Next to New Capacitors.jpeg
|Release Year = 1983
|Release Year = 1983
|Mounting Technology = Through Hole
|Mounting Technology = Through-hole on the motherboard PCB, several surface mount components on LCD daughterboard PCB
|Capacitor Types = Aluminum Electrolytic, Tantalum, Ceramic, Polymer
|Capacitor Types = Aluminum Electrolytic, Tantalum, Ceramic, Mylar, Poly Film
|Leak Risk = Medium-High
|Leak Risk = High (capacitors and Ni-Cd)
|Batteries = Four (4) AA for primary power, 1 NiCd (3.6v 50mAh) for volatile memory backup
|Batteries = Four (4) removable AA for primary power, one (1) PCB-mounted Ni-Cd (3.6v 50mAh) for volatile memory backup
|Destructive Entry = No
|Destructive Entry = No
}}
|CPU=80C85|Memory=8k-32k|Memory Type=SRAM|Storage=32k ROM + Option ROM slot|Graphics=HD44102CH|Input Voltage=6V DC|Current=600mA (Battery)
180mA (PSU)|Power Connector=Barrel Jack 5.5mm x 2.1mm Center Negative|Power Pinout=Polarity marking center negative.svg}}
The TRS-80 Model 100 is a Tandy Corporation 8-bit portable computer released in 1983. It is actually a rebranded '''Kyotronic 85''' designed and produced by '''Kyocera''' for the early 80s Japanese computer market, but the most popular SKU of this machine by far is the Tandy / Radio Shack version.
==Known Issues==
==Known Issues==
The following issues have been commonly observed with this computer. Most of these issues are caused by leaking/failing capacitors and/or a leaking/failing internal Ni-Cd battery, so replacement of these components will very often bring a Model 100 back to  
Most of these issues are caused by leaking/failing capacitors and/or a leaking/failing internal Ni-Cd battery, so the replacement of these components will very often bring a Model 100 back to operating condition with no further repair necessary - assuming of course any leakage did not affect any other components or traces on the board.
=== Leaking or Failing Ni-Cd Battery ===
=== Leaking or Failing Ni-Cd Battery ===
This is a very typical issue on the Model 100 and its variants. The original Ni-Cd battery pack (3 cells sandwiched together), if still installed, is very likely to have leaked due to age. The originally installed Ni-Cd is usually a Yuasa 3-51FT-A (3.6v 50mAh), at least in USA variants. It is soldered by its legs to the motherboard, one leg on each side of the battery. When it leaks, it tends to spread across the board and infect other components, corrupting the board traces and through-holes as it goes. Most of the original Yuasa batteries are of good quality, however, and amazingly some of them still function normally all these years later. Either way, to avoid risk of damage to the motherboard, any original Ni-Cd battery in the Model 100 must be immediately replaced.
This is a very typical issue on the Model 100 and its variants. The original Ni-Cd battery (3 Ni-Cd cells sandwiched together and shrink-wrapped in a plastic coat), if still installed, is very likely to have leaked due to age. The originally installed Ni-Cd is usually a Yuasa 3-51FT-A (3.6v 50mAh), at least in North American variants. It is soldered by its legs to the motherboard, one leg on each side of the battery. When it leaks, the leaking material tends to spread across the board and infect other components, corrupting the board traces and through-holes as it goes. Most of the original Yuasa batteries are of good quality, however, and amazingly some of them still function normally all these years later. Either way, to avoid risk of damage to the motherboard, any original Ni-Cd battery in the Model 100 must be immediately replaced.
==== Causes ====
==== Causes ====
* Age. These batteries were not meant to operate beyond a few years. Most owners of Model 100s never replaced these batteries, as the skill and effort required to do so would have been beyond the average user.
* Age. These batteries were not meant to operate beyond a few years. Most original owners of Model 100s never replaced these batteries, as the skill and effort required to do so would have been beyond the average user's ability or patience.
* Long-term exposure to humidity or higher-than-room temperatures would most certainly hasten the breakdown of the battery's shell and internal chemical composition.
* Long-term exposure to humidity or higher-than-room temperatures would most certainly hasten the breakdown of the battery's outer casing and internal chemical composition.
==== Solutions ====
*The battery can just be removed, if no replacement is desired, but note that the computer's memory will be completely lost (including all files stored on the computer) when replacing or removing the AA batteries (if the AC adapter is not also used).
*You can replace the Ni-Cd battery with a 5 volt, 1F super-capacitor to maintain memory when replacing the batteries. DGH105Q5R5 is a viable choice
=== Capacitors Leaking ===
There are only '''17 electrolytic capacitors''' and they're all on the main motherboard PCB. Four (4) of those are '''non-polarized'''. 
 
====Causes====
*Leaking or failing capacitors, most commonly in the DC to DC power supply/regulator circuits (C82, C83, C84, C85, C86, C90, C92). The small 4.7µF and 10µF electrolytic capacitors spread across the board seem to be the worst offenders (C82, C49, C50, C54, and C55)
*C82 (4.7µF) seems to be the '''most likely to fail and/or leak'''
====Solutions====
*Replace the leaking or failing capacitors - you might as well replace all of the electrolytic capacitors on the board, and any other component or trace damaged by leakage<br />
=== Won't Power On - No Apparent Activity ===
A Model 100 that doesn't seem to be powering on could be experiencing one or more of many different issues. Consider this a basic guide to power-on troubleshooting for the Model 100. Some of these steps are covered more in depth in the Model 100 Service Manual (see Related Links section).
 
==== Cause ====
 
*Memory backup switch in the "off" position
 
==== Solution ====
==== Solution ====
* While it is possible for the Model 100's original Ni-Cd batteries to still work seemingly fine all these years later, they should be replaced immediately to prevent eventual damage to the motherboard due to leakage. See "Replacing the Ni-Cd Battery" under the "Solutions and Repairs" section below.
* Flip switch
=== Symptom: Won't Power On - No Apparent Activity ===
 
The following causes and corresponding solutions are considered general power-on troubleshooting steps for the Model 100. Some of these steps are covered more in depth in the Model 100 Service Manual (see Related Links section).
==== Causes ====
==== Causes ====
* Not powered on (obviously)
* Low battery power
* Not receiving (enough) power from the 6v AC adapter power supply (original or alternative)
* Memory backup switch in the "off" position
* DC to DC power converter circuit failure
* DC to DC power converter circuit failure
** Leaking or failing electrolytic capacitors in the DC to DC circuit
** Leaking or failing electrolytic capacitors in the DC to DC circuit
**DC to DC transformer
==== Solutions ====
==== Solutions ====
*  
* Replace failing components in power regulation area
=== Symptom: Won't Power On - Low Battery Light Flashes ===
=== Won't Power On - Low Battery Light Flashes ===
With known good batteries or known good 6v power supply attached, the unit doesn't seem to power on, with one small exception: the "low battery" LED near the screen flashes for a very brief moment when the device is turned off.  
With known good batteries or known good 6v power supply attached, the unit doesn't seem to power on, with one small exception: the "low battery" LED near the screen flashes for a very brief moment when the device is turned off.  
====Causes====
====Causes====
*Leaking or failing capacitors, particularly in the DC to DC power supply/regulator circuits (C82, C83, C84, C85)
*Leaking or failing capacitors, most commonly in the DC to DC power supply/regulator circuits (C82, C83, C84, C85, C86, C90, C92). The small 4.7µF and 10µF electrolytic capacitors spread across the board seem to be the worst offenders (C82, C49, C50, C54, and C55)
*Internal Ni-Cd battery leaking or failing (low voltage)
*Internal Ni-Cd battery leaking or failing (low voltage)
*Defective/damaged DC to DC circuit or transformer
*Defective/damaged DC to DC circuit or transformer
====Solutions====
====Solutions====
*Replace the leaking or failing capacitors - you might as well replace all of the electrolytic capacitors on the board, and any other component or trace damaged by leakage
*Replace the leaking or failing capacitors - you might as well replace all of the electrolytic capacitors on the board, and any other component or trace damaged by leakage
*Replace the original Ni-Cd battery - this should always be done regardless of any observed issues
*Replace the original Ni-Cd battery - this should always be done regardless of any observed issues<br />
 
=== Missing Characters or Pixels on LCD ===
 
=== Symptom: LCD Garbage ===
When powering on, non-sensical garbage is displayed on the LCD, either as characters or individual pixels. Sometimes some portions of the screen display normally and other portions do not.
====Causes====
====Causes====
*Leaking or failing capacitors
*Individual columns or groups of pixels failing to appear can be a sign that some of the LCD circuitry or driver chips are faulty or damaged.
====Solutions====
*It can also be a sign that the unit is receiving insufficient power or uneven power regulation
*Solution to the problem
===Symptom:===
====Causes====
*Description of cause
====Solutions====
*Solution to the problem
==Disassembly Notes==
Warnings or tips to disassemble the device
 
TBD: go through a photo-based teardown.
== Solutions and Repairs ==
The following solutions and/or repairs correspond to the "Known Issues" section above.
=== Replacing The Ni-Cd Battery ===
Thankfully replacing the internal Ni-Cd battery is relatively straightforward.
=== Replacing the Electrolytic Capacitors ===
=== Replacing the LCD Screen ===
 
 
==Original Parts==
==Original Parts==
===Basic PCB Name (call out all the variants)===
===Motherboard===
''Note model numbers and board revisions here''
''PLX110CH1X''
{| class="wikitable sortable"
{| class="wikitable sortable"
|+Capacitor [[Capacitor Specifications|Specifications]] and [[Part Footprints|Footprint]] Information
|+Capacitor [[Capacitor Specifications|Specifications]] and [[Part Footprints|Footprint]] Information
Line 99: Line 78:
!Series
!Series
|-
|-
|C49, C50, C54, C55
|4
|10 µF
|16 V
|Through Hole Radial
|4 mm
|7 mm
|2 mm
|85°C
|Aluminum Electrolytic
|Panasonic
|
|
|-
|C52
|1
|1
|50 V
|Through Hole Radial
|5 mm
|10 mm
|2 mm
|85°C
|Aluminum Electrolytic Non-Polar
|Panasonic
|
|
|0 µF
|-
|C75, C76, C77
|3
|47
|16 V
|Through Hole Radial
|8 mm
|10 mm
|5 mm
|85°C
|Aluminum Electrolytic Non-Polar
|Panasonic
|
|
|-
|C78
|1
|3.3
|50 V
|Through Hole Radial
|5 mm
|10 mm
|2 mm
|85°C
|Aluminum Electrolytic
|SHOEI
|W
|-
|C82
|1
|4.7
|25 V
|Through Hole Radial
|4 mm
|7 mm
|2 mm
|85°C
|Aluminum Electrolytic
|Panasonic
|
|
|-
|C83
|1
|470
|10 V
|Through Hole Radial
|10 mm
|10 mm
|5 mm
|85°C
|Aluminum Electrolytic
|SHOEI
|W
|-
|C84
|1
|470
|6.3 V
|Through Hole Radial
|10 mm
|10 mm
|5 mm
|85°C
|Aluminum Electrolytic
|SHOEI
|W
|-
|C85
|1
|33
|10 V
|Through Hole Radial
|5 mm
|10 mm
|2 mm
|85°C
|Aluminum Electrolytic
|Panasonic
|
|
|-
|C86
|1
|100
|6.3 V
|Through Hole Radial
|6 mm
|10 mm
|2 mm
|85°C
|Aluminum Electrolytic
|SHOEI
|W
|-
|C90
|1
|1
|50 V
|Through Hole Radial
|4 mm
|7 mm
|2 mm
|85°C
|Aluminum Electrolytic
|Panasonic
|
|
|
|-
|0 °C
|C92
|
|1
|
|0.47
|
|50 V
|Through Hole Radial
|5 mm
|10 mm
|2 mm
|85°C
|Aluminum Electrolytic
|SHOEI
|W
|-
|C103
|1
|220
|10 V
|Through Hole Radial
|8 mm
|10 mm
|5 mm
|85°C
|Aluminum Electrolytic
|SHOEI
|W
|}
|}
==Replacement Parts==
==Replacement Parts==
===Basic PCB Name (call out all the variants)===
===Motherboard===
{| class="wikitable sortable"
{| class="wikitable sortable"
|+Capacitors
|+Capacitors
Line 120: Line 242:
!Compatible Part Number
!Compatible Part Number
!Order Links
!Order Links
!Notes
|-
|-
|C49, C50, C54, C55
|4
|ECE-A1EKS100
|[https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/panasonic-electronic-components/ECE-A1EKS100/160555 Digikey]
|
|
|-
|C52
|1
|UVP1H010MDD1TD
|[https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/nichicon/UVP1H010MDD1TD/4328898 DigiKey] [https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nichicon/UVP1H010MDD1TA?qs=SYXD2GzKOonN5mtr%252BqYRCA%3D%3D Mouser]
|Too tall, must be folded over
|-
|C75, C76, C77
|3
|ECE-A1CN470U
|[https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/panasonic-electronic-components/ECE-A1CN470U/227607 DigiKey]
|Too tall, must be folded over
|-
|C78
|1
|EEA-GA1H3R3H
|[https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/panasonic-electronic-components/EEA-GA1H3R3H/2513339?s=N4IgjCBcoKwAwA4qgMZQGYEMA2BnApgDQgD2UA2iAgCwICcIxd1ATHI%2BGAMwDs1IAXWIAHAC5QQAZVEAnAJYA7AOYgAvsR4sYyEGkhY8RUhRAA2BGGpdBI8ZCmzFK9eHjtoujDgLEykSmAIfBDEYDxwLKY2IGIS0vLKasRs1AweegY%2Bxv4gXAB0XAAEAK0AYtGx9gCqCnKiAPLoALL4mLgArjL4SSBsPGmoXoa%2BJvCFAGocMDATU6azxKZwC2ZFk0IxdiA1dY0tbZ3dLgC0LDp6su1GfpTaAqoPQA DigiKey]
|Board lead spacing is 5mm, original cap was smaller
|-
|C82
|1
|ECE-A1EKS4R7I
|[https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/panasonic-electronic-components/ECE-A1EKS4R7I/2689104 DigiKey]
|
|
|-
|C83, C84
|2
|UHE1C471MPD6
|[https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/nichicon/UHE1C471MPD6/589264 DigiKey]
|
|-
|C85
|1
|UPW1A330MDD
|[https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/nichicon/UPW1A330MDD/589470 DigiKey]
|
|-
|C86
|1
|EEU-EB1A101S
|[https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/panasonic-electronic-components/EEU-EB1A101S/949730 DigiKey]
|Tall, may be folded over
|-
|C90
|1
|REA05111R0M050K
|[https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/kyocera-avx/REA05111R0M050K/20096513?s=N4IgjCBcoCwGxVAYygMwIYBsDOBTANCAPZQDa4AzABwAMVIAuoQA4AuUIAyqwE4CWAOwDmIAL6EArACZEIFJAw4CxMiGpUpAdgmMW7SF16CR48BJo1Z8xXkIlI5KTClwYukGw7d%2BwsYSk0MACcVmhYtioO4AAEAK0AYu6eBgCqAnysAPKoALK46NgArjy4fiABmiHQcmFKdqrm0QBqSfogaRnZeQXFpaYAtDLV8ryFyvbkOgyiM0A DigiKey]
|
|-
|C92
|1
|URS1HR47MDD1TD
|[https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/nichicon/URS2AR47MDD1TD/4320682 DigiKey]
|
|-
|C103
|1
|EEA-GA1A221B
|[https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/panasonic-electronic-components/EEA-GA1A221B/2513286?s=N4IgjCBcoKwAwA4qgMZQGYEMA2BnApgDQgD2UA2uAMwDsALBALrEAOALlCAMpsBOAlgDsA5iAC%2BxMPDjIQaSFjxFSFcDTgAmAGwhmIdpx4CR44hrh0AnLPmKCxMpEobzAAgCtAMV2sOkEACqgvxsAPLoALL4mLgArrz4piDmNNbQchg49ipO4HCuAGogkhqFxeAwZZJaZXoG-kEh4VEx8YkSIAC0GjZQfLHKjpQwumJjQA DigiKey]
|
|
|[https://www.digikey.com/ Digikey]
|}
|}
''If parts are not available or different selection is preferred, you can use the values in the [[#Original_Parts|Original Parts]] section to perform a parametric search.''
''If parts are not available or different selection is preferred, you can use the values in the [[#Original_Parts|Original Parts]] section to perform a parametric search.''
===Kits===
 
*Digikey BOM: https://www.digikey.com/
== Related Links ==
==Related Links==
 
*[https://www.youtube.com Videos or other things that might be helpful to check out]
* Another capacitor map and parts list {{Archive web|url=https://www.soigeneris.com/Document/VintCom/TRS-80_Model_100_Cap_order_list.pdf|name=TRS-80_Model_100_Cap_order_list.pdf}}
 
==References==
==References==
<references />
<references />
[[Category:WorkNeeded:General]]
[[Category:Computer]]
[[Category:WorkNeeded:OriginalParts]]
[[Category:Tandy]]
[[Category:WorkNeeded:ReplacementParts]]
[[Category:Radio Shack]]
[[Category:1980s]]
[[Category:Microcomputer]]

Latest revision as of 17:14, 7 July 2024

For general information, see more on Wikipedia: TRS-80 Model 100
TRS-80 Model 100
Preliminary Information
Release Year 1983
Leak Risk High (capacitors and Ni-Cd)
Batteries Four (4) removable AA for primary power, one (1) PCB-mounted Ni-Cd (3.6v 50mAh) for volatile memory backup
Mounting Technology Through-hole on the motherboard PCB, several surface mount components on LCD daughterboard PCB
Capacitor Types Aluminum Electrolytic, Tantalum, Ceramic, Mylar, Poly Film
Destructive Entry No
Hardware Specifications
CPU 80C85
Memory Capacity 8k-32k
Memory Type SRAM
Storage 32k ROM + Option ROM slot
Graphics HD44102CH
Power Requirements
Input Voltage 6V DC
Current (Amps) 600mA (Battery) 180mA (PSU)
Power Connector Barrel Jack 5.5mm x 2.1mm Center Negative
Power Pinout

The TRS-80 Model 100 is a Tandy Corporation 8-bit portable computer released in 1983. It is actually a rebranded Kyotronic 85 designed and produced by Kyocera for the early 80s Japanese computer market, but the most popular SKU of this machine by far is the Tandy / Radio Shack version.

Known Issues

Most of these issues are caused by leaking/failing capacitors and/or a leaking/failing internal Ni-Cd battery, so the replacement of these components will very often bring a Model 100 back to operating condition with no further repair necessary - assuming of course any leakage did not affect any other components or traces on the board.

Leaking or Failing Ni-Cd Battery

This is a very typical issue on the Model 100 and its variants. The original Ni-Cd battery (3 Ni-Cd cells sandwiched together and shrink-wrapped in a plastic coat), if still installed, is very likely to have leaked due to age. The originally installed Ni-Cd is usually a Yuasa 3-51FT-A (3.6v 50mAh), at least in North American variants. It is soldered by its legs to the motherboard, one leg on each side of the battery. When it leaks, the leaking material tends to spread across the board and infect other components, corrupting the board traces and through-holes as it goes. Most of the original Yuasa batteries are of good quality, however, and amazingly some of them still function normally all these years later. Either way, to avoid risk of damage to the motherboard, any original Ni-Cd battery in the Model 100 must be immediately replaced.

Causes

  • Age. These batteries were not meant to operate beyond a few years. Most original owners of Model 100s never replaced these batteries, as the skill and effort required to do so would have been beyond the average user's ability or patience.
  • Long-term exposure to humidity or higher-than-room temperatures would most certainly hasten the breakdown of the battery's outer casing and internal chemical composition.

Solutions

  • The battery can just be removed, if no replacement is desired, but note that the computer's memory will be completely lost (including all files stored on the computer) when replacing or removing the AA batteries (if the AC adapter is not also used).
  • You can replace the Ni-Cd battery with a 5 volt, 1F super-capacitor to maintain memory when replacing the batteries. DGH105Q5R5 is a viable choice

Capacitors Leaking

There are only 17 electrolytic capacitors and they're all on the main motherboard PCB. Four (4) of those are non-polarized.

Causes

  • Leaking or failing capacitors, most commonly in the DC to DC power supply/regulator circuits (C82, C83, C84, C85, C86, C90, C92). The small 4.7µF and 10µF electrolytic capacitors spread across the board seem to be the worst offenders (C82, C49, C50, C54, and C55)
  • C82 (4.7µF) seems to be the most likely to fail and/or leak

Solutions

  • Replace the leaking or failing capacitors - you might as well replace all of the electrolytic capacitors on the board, and any other component or trace damaged by leakage

Won't Power On - No Apparent Activity

A Model 100 that doesn't seem to be powering on could be experiencing one or more of many different issues. Consider this a basic guide to power-on troubleshooting for the Model 100. Some of these steps are covered more in depth in the Model 100 Service Manual (see Related Links section).

Cause

  • Memory backup switch in the "off" position

Solution

  • Flip switch

Causes

  • DC to DC power converter circuit failure
    • Leaking or failing electrolytic capacitors in the DC to DC circuit
    • DC to DC transformer

Solutions

  • Replace failing components in power regulation area

Won't Power On - Low Battery Light Flashes

With known good batteries or known good 6v power supply attached, the unit doesn't seem to power on, with one small exception: the "low battery" LED near the screen flashes for a very brief moment when the device is turned off.

Causes

  • Leaking or failing capacitors, most commonly in the DC to DC power supply/regulator circuits (C82, C83, C84, C85, C86, C90, C92). The small 4.7µF and 10µF electrolytic capacitors spread across the board seem to be the worst offenders (C82, C49, C50, C54, and C55)
  • Internal Ni-Cd battery leaking or failing (low voltage)
  • Defective/damaged DC to DC circuit or transformer

Solutions

  • Replace the leaking or failing capacitors - you might as well replace all of the electrolytic capacitors on the board, and any other component or trace damaged by leakage
  • Replace the original Ni-Cd battery - this should always be done regardless of any observed issues

Missing Characters or Pixels on LCD

Causes

  • Individual columns or groups of pixels failing to appear can be a sign that some of the LCD circuitry or driver chips are faulty or damaged.
  • It can also be a sign that the unit is receiving insufficient power or uneven power regulation

Original Parts

Motherboard

PLX110CH1X

Capacitor Specifications and Footprint Information
RefDes Qty Capacitance Voltage Mount Diameter/Size Height Lead Spacing Temp Type Brand Series
C49, C50, C54, C55 4 10 µF 16 V Through Hole Radial 4 mm 7 mm 2 mm 85°C Aluminum Electrolytic Panasonic
C52 1 1 50 V Through Hole Radial 5 mm 10 mm 2 mm 85°C Aluminum Electrolytic Non-Polar Panasonic
C75, C76, C77 3 47 16 V Through Hole Radial 8 mm 10 mm 5 mm 85°C Aluminum Electrolytic Non-Polar Panasonic
C78 1 3.3 50 V Through Hole Radial 5 mm 10 mm 2 mm 85°C Aluminum Electrolytic SHOEI W
C82 1 4.7 25 V Through Hole Radial 4 mm 7 mm 2 mm 85°C Aluminum Electrolytic Panasonic
C83 1 470 10 V Through Hole Radial 10 mm 10 mm 5 mm 85°C Aluminum Electrolytic SHOEI W
C84 1 470 6.3 V Through Hole Radial 10 mm 10 mm 5 mm 85°C Aluminum Electrolytic SHOEI W
C85 1 33 10 V Through Hole Radial 5 mm 10 mm 2 mm 85°C Aluminum Electrolytic Panasonic
C86 1 100 6.3 V Through Hole Radial 6 mm 10 mm 2 mm 85°C Aluminum Electrolytic SHOEI W
C90 1 1 50 V Through Hole Radial 4 mm 7 mm 2 mm 85°C Aluminum Electrolytic Panasonic
C92 1 0.47 50 V Through Hole Radial 5 mm 10 mm 2 mm 85°C Aluminum Electrolytic SHOEI W
C103 1 220 10 V Through Hole Radial 8 mm 10 mm 5 mm 85°C Aluminum Electrolytic SHOEI W

Replacement Parts

Motherboard

Capacitors
RefDes Qty Compatible Part Number Order Links Notes
C49, C50, C54, C55 4 ECE-A1EKS100 Digikey
C52 1 UVP1H010MDD1TD DigiKey Mouser Too tall, must be folded over
C75, C76, C77 3 ECE-A1CN470U DigiKey Too tall, must be folded over
C78 1 EEA-GA1H3R3H DigiKey Board lead spacing is 5mm, original cap was smaller
C82 1 ECE-A1EKS4R7I DigiKey
C83, C84 2 UHE1C471MPD6 DigiKey
C85 1 UPW1A330MDD DigiKey
C86 1 EEU-EB1A101S DigiKey Tall, may be folded over
C90 1 REA05111R0M050K DigiKey
C92 1 URS1HR47MDD1TD DigiKey
C103 1 EEA-GA1A221B DigiKey

If parts are not available or different selection is preferred, you can use the values in the Original Parts section to perform a parametric search.

Related Links


References

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