Macintosh Classic: Difference between revisions
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{{WikipediaInfoAlt| | {{WikipediaInfoAlt|https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Macintosh_Classic}} | ||
{{DeviceAlerts}} | {{DeviceAlerts}} | ||
{{InfoboxDevice | {{InfoboxDevice | ||
|Title = Macintosh Classic | |Title = Macintosh Classic | ||
|Picture = | |Picture =Macintosh classic.jpg | ||
|Release Year = | |Release Year = 1990 | ||
|Mounting Technology = Through Hole, SMD, BGA, Sockets | |Mounting Technology = Through Hole, SMD, BGA, Sockets | ||
|Capacitor Types = Aluminum Electrolytic | |Capacitor Types = Aluminum Electrolytic | ||
Line 11: | Line 11: | ||
|Destructive Entry = No | |Destructive Entry = No | ||
|CPU=MC68000|Memory=1-2MB|Storage=3,5in Floppy Drive, 40MB HDD IDE|Display Interface=Proprietary}} | |CPU=MC68000|Memory=1-2MB|Storage=3,5in Floppy Drive, 40MB HDD IDE|Display Interface=Proprietary}} | ||
The Macintoshes Classic marked the decline and eventual end of the compact Macs. It was sold from 1990 to 1992 as the low end of the Mac lineup. It ran on an 8 MHz Motorola 68000 processor, which was remarkably slower than its contemporaries, but kept its appeal as the first Mac less than $1000. | |||
==Known Issues== | ==Known Issues== | ||
=== | ===Leaky Battery=== | ||
==== | ====Cause==== | ||
* | *Age: Old batteries tend to go bad. The ones in the Mac Classic like to also leak and corode the motherboard, sometimes beyond repair. | ||
====Solutions==== | ====Solutions==== | ||
*Solution to the | *First remove the battery (or what's left of it). Then try to neutralise the acid with something like soda. Clean the Board as good as you can. You might be lucky and get away with minor repairs like replacing a few components. There's a big possibility though that traces are damaged. In that case try to rewire them as good as you can with some external thin wires. | ||
=== Leaky Capacitors === | |||
==== Cause ==== | |||
* Also age: Capacitors go bad just like batteries. Eventually they will leak all over your board. | |||
==== Solution ==== | |||
* Try to clean the board as good as you can from the electrolyte. Then remove the capacitors one by one and clean again (A toothbrush and some isopropyl alkohol are pretty useful. For me, water and soap work better but hard water can leave behind awful stains which may also be conductive). Replace the damaged components that may be around and capacitors. All you have to do now is test it. | |||
==Disassembly Notes== | ==Disassembly Notes== | ||
Warnings or tips to disassemble the device | Warnings or tips to disassemble the device | ||
==Original Parts== | ==Original Parts== | ||
===Basic PCB Name=== | ===Basic PCB Name=== | ||
[[File:Mac Analog Board 630-0525 Rev B With Key.jpg|thumb|Apple Macintosh Analog Board 630-0525 Rev B 120V]] | |||
''Note model numbers and board revisions here'' | ''Note model numbers and board revisions here'' | ||
{| class="wikitable sortable" | {| class="wikitable sortable" | ||
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| | | | ||
|7 | |7 | ||
| | |875105344006 / HV1V476M0605PZ | ||
|[https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/würth-elektronik/875105344006/5147585 Digikey] [https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Wurth-Elektronik/875105344006?qs=0KOYDY2FL29piTbBKO%252B6mw%3D%3D Mouser] [https://www.lcsc.com/product-detail/Solid-Capacitors_Honor-Elec-HV1V476M0605PZ_C5246552.html LCSC] | |||
|[https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/würth-elektronik/875105344006/5147585 Digikey] | |||
|} | |} | ||
''If parts are not available or different selection is preferred, you can use the values in the [[#Original_Parts|Original Parts]] section to perform a parametric search.'' | ''If parts are not available or different selection is preferred, you can use the values in the [[#Original_Parts|Original Parts]] section to perform a parametric search.'' | ||
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[[Category:WorkNeeded:OriginalParts]] | [[Category:WorkNeeded:OriginalParts]] | ||
[[Category:WorkNeeded:ReplacementParts]] | [[Category:WorkNeeded:ReplacementParts]] | ||
[[Category:1990s]] |
Latest revision as of 21:27, 13 May 2024
- For more information, see this article's corresponding Wikipedia page: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Macintosh_Classic.
This device is in the WorkNeeded:OriginalParts category because it was flagged as missing information on the original parts. It may have replacement parts listed but those cannot be assumed to be identical to the originals. If you have a list of the original parts, please feel free to add them by copying the relevant table from EditorsToolbox:Tables |
This device is in the WorkNeeded:ReplacementParts category because it was flagged as missing information on replacement parts. If it has the original parts listed you may be able to search for replacements using the parametric searches available from parts distributors. If you have or make a list of replacement parts, please feel free to add them by copying the relevant table from EditorsToolbox:Tables |
This device is in the WorkNeeded:General category because it was flagged as missing general information about the device. The information may be incomplete, using default text, or inaccurate and should be verified with external sources if possible. If you can add or correct information on this page, please feel free to edit it and do so. |
Macintosh Classic
Preliminary Information | |
---|---|
Release Year | 1990 |
Leak Risk | Medium-High |
Batteries | Lithium 3,5v |
Mounting Technology | Through Hole, SMD, BGA, Sockets |
Capacitor Types | Aluminum Electrolytic |
Destructive Entry | No |
Hardware Specifications | |
CPU | MC68000 |
Memory Capacity | 1-2MB |
Storage | 3,5in Floppy Drive, 40MB HDD IDE |
Display Interface | Proprietary |
The Macintoshes Classic marked the decline and eventual end of the compact Macs. It was sold from 1990 to 1992 as the low end of the Mac lineup. It ran on an 8 MHz Motorola 68000 processor, which was remarkably slower than its contemporaries, but kept its appeal as the first Mac less than $1000.
Known Issues
Leaky Battery
Cause
- Age: Old batteries tend to go bad. The ones in the Mac Classic like to also leak and corode the motherboard, sometimes beyond repair.
Solutions
- First remove the battery (or what's left of it). Then try to neutralise the acid with something like soda. Clean the Board as good as you can. You might be lucky and get away with minor repairs like replacing a few components. There's a big possibility though that traces are damaged. In that case try to rewire them as good as you can with some external thin wires.
Leaky Capacitors
Cause
- Also age: Capacitors go bad just like batteries. Eventually they will leak all over your board.
Solution
- Try to clean the board as good as you can from the electrolyte. Then remove the capacitors one by one and clean again (A toothbrush and some isopropyl alkohol are pretty useful. For me, water and soap work better but hard water can leave behind awful stains which may also be conductive). Replace the damaged components that may be around and capacitors. All you have to do now is test it.
Disassembly Notes
Warnings or tips to disassemble the device
Original Parts
Basic PCB Name
Note model numbers and board revisions here
RefDes | Qty | Capacitance | Voltage | Mount | Diameter/Size | Height | Lead Spacing | Temp | Type | Brand | Series |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
??? | 7 | 47 µF | 16V | SMD | 6,4mm | 4,65mm | ??? | 0 °C | Polymer Capacitors | J2 | ??? |
Replacement Parts
Basic PCB Name
RefDes | Qty | Compatible Part Number | Order Links |
---|---|---|---|
7 | 875105344006 / HV1V476M0605PZ | Digikey Mouser LCSC |
If parts are not available or different selection is preferred, you can use the values in the Original Parts section to perform a parametric search.
Kits
- Digikey BOM: https://www.digikey.com/