Yashica YC-64: Difference between revisions

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[[Category:Computer]]
[[Category:Computer]]
[[Category:WorkNeeded:OriginalParts]]
[[Category:WorkNeeded:OriginalParts]]
[[Category:Microcomputer]]

Latest revision as of 04:56, 1 February 2024

For more information, see this article's corresponding Wikipedia page: MSX.
This device is in the WorkNeeded:OriginalParts category because it was flagged as missing information on the original parts. It may have replacement parts listed but those cannot be assumed to be identical to the originals. If you have a list of the original parts, please feel free to add them by copying the relevant table from EditorsToolbox:Tables
Yashica YC-64
[[File:
Yashica YC-64
|300px]]
Preliminary Information
Release Year 1984
Leak Risk Low/Medium
Batteries None
Mounting Technology Through Hole
Capacitor Types Electrolytic, Ceramic
Destructive Entry No
Hardware Specifications
Storage MSX cartridge slot
Graphics Texas Instruments TMS9929ANL

The Yashica YC-64 was an MSX 8-bit microcomputer manufactured by Kyocera.

Known Issues

Symptom or Problem Encountered

The mains transformer hums loudly.

Causes

  • Unknown

Solutions

  • Unknown

Disassembly Notes

Getting the case open requires the unscrewing of two screws on the bottom, towards the back.

Then there are three tabs where the red upper cover needs to be pried outward from the bottom part of the case: One tab in the middle of the back, and one tab in the middle of each of the sides.

Once these are loose, the back side of the red cover can be gently lifted up a few centimeters, and pulled towards the user or more precisely towards the front of the machine.

Note that the tab on the back, and the tabs on either side, are shallow, probably one millimeter or less. You should be able to pry them out with a flathead screwdriver without worrying too much about breaking anything.

The three tabs on the front are significantly longer, and the plastic is brittle. It is not necessary to use force on these, as they slide right out after you have loosened the three other tabs. If you do use force on them, they will probably snap right off.

After the cover has been lifted off, the two-pin connector for the power LED can be pulled from its socket on the main board before you can put the cover aside.

The keyboard has two flat-flex connectors that go to sockets on the motherboard. First unlock the sockets, then gently pull out the flat-flex. After that, the keyboard can be lifted right off.

Keyboard

Warning: Do not use a key puller to remove the keys from the keyboard. There are plastic hooks on each key that sticks through the mounting plate, and if you pull on the keys you risk damaging these hooks.

Most of the keys have two springs under each key. There is one wide spring that makes the key bounce back after you release it. The spacebar is the only exception; it has two of the wide springs.

Then there is a thinner spring that sits in the middle of the wide one. The thin spring is the actuator that makes a keypress register when you depress a key.

It might be possible to remove most keycaps by pulling them straight out, but it’s not recommended. Each keycap has two plastic tabs that holds the cap down to the board, and if the plastic has become brittle, they might snap.

Also, the only way to remove the left shift, space, and enter key without damaging them, is to unscrew the back plate first. These keys are rather long, and they are attached to metal stabilizer bars that ensure that the keys depress evenly.

On the Yashica, these stabilizer bars are rugged, and they need to be removed before pulling the keycaps. Failing to do so will damage the keycap.

Unscrew all the little screws that held the back plate in place, and everything will come apart nicely. Slide the three stabilizer bars for the left shift, space and enter keys sideways, and pull them out.

Now get the thin springs out and put them in a container.

Use a small screwdriver or other pointy object to carefully push the keycaps out of the black plastic frame. If you have long or pointy nails, you might even do without any tools for this job.

Original Parts

The main board has no revision number or model identifier on the silkscreen. The PSU board has the code PPPWOOBAOY. The graphics daughterboard has the code 55-4007C and EMC-PX3607.

PSU Board

Capacitor Specifications and Footprint Information
RefDes Qty Capacitance Voltage Mount Diameter/Size Lead Spacing Temp Type Brand Series
C2 1 4700 µF 16 V Through Hole Radial °C Aluminum Electrolytic
1 3300 25 V Through Hole Radial Aluminum Electrolytic
1 50 V Through hole Radial 85 Aluminum Electrolytic

Main Board

Capacitor Specifications and Footprint Information
RefDes Qty Capacitance Voltage Mount Diameter/Size Height Lead Spacing Temp Type Brand Series
C18 1 10 µF 25 V 0 °C

Sub Board (attached to main board)

Capacitor Specifications and Footprint Information
RefDes Qty Capacitance Voltage Mount Diameter/Size Height Lead Spacing Temp Type Brand Series
2 0.47 µF 0 °C

Replacement Parts

PSU Board

PPPWOOBAOY

Capacitors
RefDes Qty Compatible Part Number Order Links
C2 1 16PK4700MEFC12.5X25 / ESK478M025AM2AA / ELXZ160ELL472ML30S DigiKey Mouser LCSC
1 UVZ1E332MHD / 25ZLH3300MEFCCE16X25 DigiKey Mouser LCSC
1 860020672005 / UPM1H010MDD DigiKey Mouser LCSC

Main Board

board)

Capacitors
RefDes Qty Compatible Part Number Order Links
C18 1 860010472002 / 50PK10MEFC5X11 DigiKey Mouser LCSC

Sub Board (attached to main board)

Capacitors
RefDes Qty Compatible Part Number Order Links
2 860010672004 / 50MH50R47MEFCT54X5 DigiKey Mouser LCSC

If parts are not available or different selection is preferred, you can use the values in the Original Parts section to perform a parametric search.

Kits

Related Links

References