Microsoft Xbox: Difference between revisions
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{{WikipediaInfoAlt| | {{WikipediaInfoAlt|Xbox (console)}} | ||
{{DeviceAlerts}} | {{DeviceAlerts}} | ||
{{InfoboxDevice | {{InfoboxDevice | ||
Line 6: | Line 6: | ||
|Release Year = 2001 | |Release Year = 2001 | ||
|Mounting Technology = Through Hole, SMD, BGA | |Mounting Technology = Through Hole, SMD, BGA | ||
|Capacitor Types = | |Capacitor Types = tbd | ||
|Leak Risk = High | |Leak Risk = High | ||
|Batteries = None | |Batteries = None | ||
|Destructive Entry = No | |Destructive Entry = No | ||
}} | }} | ||
== Known Issues == | == Known Issues == | ||
The original Xbox, up to the last version produced (pre v1.6) contains a capacitor used to keep the date and time (C1010, next to a bank of larger caps). Unfortunately, due to capacitor manufacturing defects present during this era of computing, the capacitor used for this purpose is very well known for failure, similar to a lot of classic Macintosh computers. It is highly recommended to remove or replace this capacitor, as it is basically guaranteed to leak and cause damage to the motherboard. | |||
===Internal clock resets upon power loss=== | ===Internal clock resets upon power loss=== | ||
====Causes==== | ====Causes==== | ||
Line 20: | Line 18: | ||
====Solutions==== | ====Solutions==== | ||
*Replace the capacitor. | *Replace the capacitor. | ||
*Remove the capacitor, but manually set the time upon rebooting after power loss. | *Remove the capacitor, but manually set the time upon rebooting after power loss. (Version 1.6 boards require this capacitor and will fail to boot without it) | ||
*Connect your Xbox to the internet so that it can synchronize ( | *Connect your Xbox to the internet so that it can synchronize with a timeserver on boot. (Requires custom dashboard) | ||
===Disc drive no longer reads discs=== | === System powers on when connected to mains - front panel buttons do not function === | ||
==== Causes ==== | |||
* The RTC aerogel supercapacitor has failed, and caused corrosion to traces on the PCB relating to the front panel buttons. | |||
==== Solutions ==== | |||
* Ensure there is continuity between the PIC16 or Xyclops chip and the signal resistors as well as between the signal resistors and front panel pin header, replacing traces where needed. | |||
===Disc drive no longer reads discs or disc tray is malfunctioning=== | |||
====Causes==== | ====Causes==== | ||
*The rubber drive belt has degraded | *The rubber drive belt has degraded | ||
*The read laser has failed | *The read laser has failed | ||
====Solutions==== | ====Solutions==== | ||
*Replace the drive belt | *Replace the drive belt. A 15mm diameter belt is required, the belts from the Xbox & Xbox 360 are interchangeable. | ||
*Replace the entire drive | *Replace the entire drive | ||
===Disc drive repeatedly opens and closes sometimes when attempting to close=== | |||
====Causes==== | |||
* The disc drive is not receiving consistent power, and is losing track of its current state. | |||
====Solutions==== | |||
* Check capacitors and replace any which are bulging or failing. | |||
* Check motherboard for damaged traces or signs of dislodged components. | |||
=== System does not power on - no signs of life === | |||
==== Causes ==== | |||
* The power supply unit has failed | |||
* The capacitors around the 20 pin connector have failed (v1.6) | |||
==== Solutions ==== | |||
* Replace power supply unit | |||
* Recap system board. On a 1.6 version unit, the 4 caps around the 20 pin connector are usually the culprit. | |||
=== Save file corruption === | |||
==== Causes ==== | |||
* The hard drive is failing | |||
==== Solutions ==== | |||
* Replace the hard drive | |||
* Alternatively, move your save files to a memory unit | |||
== Disassembly Notes == | == Disassembly Notes == | ||
''See [[Disassembly:Microsoft_Xbox|disassembly]] tab for step-by-step guide.'' | ''See [[Disassembly:Microsoft_Xbox|disassembly]] tab for step-by-step guide.'' | ||
* The four rubber feet on the underside of the device are held in with strong adhesive. If you want them to remain after disassembly, peel them back (from the outer edge of the device) just enough to expose the screw heads. | * The four rubber feet on the underside of the device are held in with strong adhesive. If you want them to remain after disassembly, peel them back (from the outer edge of the device) just enough to expose the screw heads. | ||
* | * The internal IDE ribbon cable is over a decade old, so be very gentle with it. Bending it too many times will damage the internal connections, rendering it flaky or inoperable. | ||
*The power supply is | *The power supply is fully exposed once the Xbox drive units are removed. Be very careful not to shock yourself on it. | ||
=== Recommended Tools === | === Recommended Tools === | ||
{| class="wikitable" | {| class="wikitable" | ||
Line 44: | Line 66: | ||
|- | |- | ||
|Torx | |Torx | ||
| | |T10 | ||
|For internal screws | |For main internal screws | ||
|- | |- | ||
|Torx | |Torx | ||
| | |T15 | ||
|For external screws | |For HDD retention screws on some revisions | ||
|- | |||
|Torx | |||
|T20 | |||
|For all external screws | |||
|- | |||
|Phillips | |||
|PH2 | |||
|For internal drive screws | |||
|} | |} | ||
{| class="wikitable" | {| class="wikitable" | ||
|+ | |+ | ||
Line 58: | Line 87: | ||
!Notes | !Notes | ||
|- | |- | ||
| | |Pry Tool | ||
|To peel back the rubber feet on the underside of the device | |To peel back the rubber feet on the underside of the device | ||
|} | |} | ||
== Original Parts == | == Original Parts == | ||
=== | === Pre-1.6 Motherboard === | ||
{| class="wikitable sortable" | {| class="wikitable sortable" | ||
|+Capacitor [[Capacitor Specifications|Specifications]] and | |+Capacitor [[Capacitor Specifications|Specifications]] and [[Part Footprints|Footprint]] Information | ||
!RefDes | !RefDes !!Qty !!Capacitance !!Voltage !![https://caps.wiki/wiki/Part_Footprints Mount] !!Diameter/Size | ||
!Qty | !Temp !![https://caps.wiki/wiki/Capacitor_Types Type] !!Brand !!Series !!Visual note | ||
!Capacitance | |- | ||
!Voltage | | C2F1?, C8G_? || 2 || 3300 µF || 10v || THT Radial || || || Aluminum Electrolytic || Nichicon || PW || Brown Sleeve | ||
![https://caps.wiki/wiki/Part_Footprints Mount] | |- | ||
!Diameter/Size | | C1E1, C2E4, ? || 3 || 3300 µF || 6.3v || THT Radial || || || Aluminum Electrolytic || Nichicon || HM || Black Sleeve, Leak Prone | ||
!Temp | |- | ||
![https://caps.wiki/wiki/Capacitor_Types Type] | | C6B4, C5B6, C5A9, C6__?, C5A4? || 5+ || || 1.6v? || SMT Radial || || || || || || Deceptive markings? "¤33 10 16v" | ||
! | |- | ||
! | | C7G_?, C7G_? || 2+ || 1500 µF || 6.3v || THT Radial || || || Aluminum Electrolytic || Nichicon || KZE || Green Sleeve | ||
|- | |||
| C8E3, more || ~4+ || 22 µF || 25v || THT Radial || || || Aluminum Electrolytic || Nichicon || SME || Black Sleeve, Small | |||
|- | |||
| C5A4, ? || 2+ || 680 µF || 16v || THT Radial || || || Aluminum Electrolytic || Nichicon || || Black Sleeve, Short | |||
|- | |||
| C6G2, ? || 3+ || 100 µF || 25v || THT Radial || || || Aluminum Electrolytic || Nichicon || SME || Black Sleeve, Short | |||
|- | |||
|} | |||
Incomplete table | |||
==Replacement Parts== | |||
===Basic PCB Name=== | |||
{| class="wikitable" | |||
! rowspan="2" |RefDes | |||
! rowspan="2" | Qty | |||
! rowspan="2" |Compatible Part Number | |||
! colspan="8" |Distributor Links | |||
[ Preferred / Search ] | |||
|- | |||
! colspan="2" |Digikey | |||
! colspan="2" |Mouser | |||
! colspan="2" |Farnell | |||
! colspan="2" |LCSC | |||
|- | |- | ||
| | | | ||
|1 | |||
|DZ-2R5D105T / 105DCN2R7S / JUWT1105MCD | |||
|[https://www.digikey.co.uk/en/products/detail/elna-america/DZ-2R5D105T/970195?s=N4IgTCBcDaIGwAYAsBaAjAgzKgcgERAF0BfIA Part] | |||
|[https://www.digikey.com/ 🔎] | |||
|[https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/CDE-Illinois-Capacitor/105DCN2R7S?qs=5bxuhXpi2REuV%252BYzinw6Mg%3D%3D Part] | |||
| | | | ||
| | |[https://uk.farnell.com/nichicon/juwt1105mcd/cap-1f-2-7v-20-double-layer-radial/dp/2841871 Part] | ||
| | | | ||
| | | | ||
| | | | ||
|- | |||
|C2F1?, C8G_? | |||
|2 | |||
|10ZLQ3300MEFC10X25 / UHV1A332MHD / 10ZLH3300MEFC10X25 | |||
|[https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/rubycon/10ZLQ3300MEFC10X25/6049998 Part] | |||
| | | | ||
|[https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nichicon/UHV1A332MHD?qs=GUo4%252BOtriCDm%252BQMvenRyHA%3D%3D Part] | |||
| | | | ||
| | | | ||
| | | | ||
| | |[https://www.lcsc.com/product-detail/Aluminum-Electrolytic-Capacitors-Leaded_Rubycon-10ZLH3300MEFC10X25_C694053.html Part] | ||
| | |||
|- | |- | ||
|C1E1, C2E4, ? | |||
|3 | |||
|UHD0J332MHD / EEU-FS0J332B / 10ZLH3300MEFC10X25 | |||
|[https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/nichicon/UHD0J332MHD/2598041 Part] | |||
| | |||
|[https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Panasonic/EEU-FS0J332B?qs=gt1LBUVyoHlzh%252BqWr8CU9A%3D%3D Part] | |||
| | |||
| | | | ||
| | | | ||
|[https://www.lcsc.com/product-detail/Aluminum-Electrolytic-Capacitors-Leaded_Rubycon-10ZLH3300MEFC10X25_C694053.html Part] | |||
| | | | ||
|}''If parts are not available or different selection is preferred, you can use the values in the [[#Original_Parts|Original Parts]] section to perform a parametric search.'' | |||
|} | Note: It is recommended to not replace the clock cap, it was only ever intended to store the date and time for an hour so not having it doesn't really affect anything. | ||
''If parts are not available or different selection is preferred, you can use the values in the [[#Original_Parts|Original Parts]] section to perform a parametric search.'' | |||
Note 2: You can install a higher capacitance part to increase the storage time (up to 10F ) however this could potentially cause issues with the charging circuit. | |||
===Kits=== | ===Kits=== | ||
* Digikey BOM: https://www.digikey.com/ | * Digikey BOM: https://www.digikey.com/ | ||
== Related Links == | == Related Links == | ||
* [https://xboxdevwiki.net/Hardware_Revisions Hardware Revisions - xboxdevwiki] | * [https://xboxdevwiki.net/Hardware_Revisions Hardware Revisions - xboxdevwiki] | ||
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y-vnkWDeRBc Mr.Mario2011 - How to Remove an Original Xbox Clock Capacitor (v1.0 - 1.5)] | |||
== References == | == References == | ||
<references /> | <references /> | ||
[[Category: WorkNeeded:ReplacementParts]] | [[Category: WorkNeeded:ReplacementParts]] | ||
[[Category: WorkNeeded:OriginalParts]] | [[Category: WorkNeeded:OriginalParts]] | ||
[[Category:2000s]] | [[Category:2000s]] | ||
[[Category:Game Console]] | [[Category:Game Console]] | ||
[[Category:Microsoft]] |
Latest revision as of 00:59, 29 January 2024
- For more information, see this article's corresponding Wikipedia page: Xbox (console).
This device is in the WorkNeeded:OriginalParts category because it was flagged as missing information on the original parts. It may have replacement parts listed but those cannot be assumed to be identical to the originals. If you have a list of the original parts, please feel free to add them by copying the relevant table from EditorsToolbox:Tables |
This device is in the WorkNeeded:ReplacementParts category because it was flagged as missing information on replacement parts. If it has the original parts listed you may be able to search for replacements using the parametric searches available from parts distributors. If you have or make a list of replacement parts, please feel free to add them by copying the relevant table from EditorsToolbox:Tables |
Preliminary Information | |
---|---|
Release Year | 2001 |
Leak Risk | High |
Batteries | None |
Mounting Technology | Through Hole, SMD, BGA |
Capacitor Types | tbd |
Destructive Entry | No |
Known Issues
The original Xbox, up to the last version produced (pre v1.6) contains a capacitor used to keep the date and time (C1010, next to a bank of larger caps). Unfortunately, due to capacitor manufacturing defects present during this era of computing, the capacitor used for this purpose is very well known for failure, similar to a lot of classic Macintosh computers. It is highly recommended to remove or replace this capacitor, as it is basically guaranteed to leak and cause damage to the motherboard.
Internal clock resets upon power loss
Causes
- The aerogel supercapacitor responsible for keeping the RTC online has failed.
Solutions
- Replace the capacitor.
- Remove the capacitor, but manually set the time upon rebooting after power loss. (Version 1.6 boards require this capacitor and will fail to boot without it)
- Connect your Xbox to the internet so that it can synchronize with a timeserver on boot. (Requires custom dashboard)
System powers on when connected to mains - front panel buttons do not function
Causes
- The RTC aerogel supercapacitor has failed, and caused corrosion to traces on the PCB relating to the front panel buttons.
Solutions
- Ensure there is continuity between the PIC16 or Xyclops chip and the signal resistors as well as between the signal resistors and front panel pin header, replacing traces where needed.
Disc drive no longer reads discs or disc tray is malfunctioning
Causes
- The rubber drive belt has degraded
- The read laser has failed
Solutions
- Replace the drive belt. A 15mm diameter belt is required, the belts from the Xbox & Xbox 360 are interchangeable.
- Replace the entire drive
Disc drive repeatedly opens and closes sometimes when attempting to close
Causes
- The disc drive is not receiving consistent power, and is losing track of its current state.
Solutions
- Check capacitors and replace any which are bulging or failing.
- Check motherboard for damaged traces or signs of dislodged components.
System does not power on - no signs of life
Causes
- The power supply unit has failed
- The capacitors around the 20 pin connector have failed (v1.6)
Solutions
- Replace power supply unit
- Recap system board. On a 1.6 version unit, the 4 caps around the 20 pin connector are usually the culprit.
Save file corruption
Causes
- The hard drive is failing
Solutions
- Replace the hard drive
- Alternatively, move your save files to a memory unit
Disassembly Notes
See disassembly tab for step-by-step guide.
- The four rubber feet on the underside of the device are held in with strong adhesive. If you want them to remain after disassembly, peel them back (from the outer edge of the device) just enough to expose the screw heads.
- The internal IDE ribbon cable is over a decade old, so be very gentle with it. Bending it too many times will damage the internal connections, rendering it flaky or inoperable.
- The power supply is fully exposed once the Xbox drive units are removed. Be very careful not to shock yourself on it.
Recommended Tools
Fastener Types | Sizes | Notes |
---|---|---|
Torx | T10 | For main internal screws |
Torx | T15 | For HDD retention screws on some revisions |
Torx | T20 | For all external screws |
Phillips | PH2 | For internal drive screws |
Tool | Notes |
---|---|
Pry Tool | To peel back the rubber feet on the underside of the device |
Original Parts
Pre-1.6 Motherboard
RefDes | Qty | Capacitance | Voltage | Mount | Diameter/Size | Temp | Type | Brand | Series | Visual note |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
C2F1?, C8G_? | 2 | 3300 µF | 10v | THT Radial | Aluminum Electrolytic | Nichicon | PW | Brown Sleeve | ||
C1E1, C2E4, ? | 3 | 3300 µF | 6.3v | THT Radial | Aluminum Electrolytic | Nichicon | HM | Black Sleeve, Leak Prone | ||
C6B4, C5B6, C5A9, C6__?, C5A4? | 5+ | 1.6v? | SMT Radial | Deceptive markings? "¤33 10 16v" | ||||||
C7G_?, C7G_? | 2+ | 1500 µF | 6.3v | THT Radial | Aluminum Electrolytic | Nichicon | KZE | Green Sleeve | ||
C8E3, more | ~4+ | 22 µF | 25v | THT Radial | Aluminum Electrolytic | Nichicon | SME | Black Sleeve, Small | ||
C5A4, ? | 2+ | 680 µF | 16v | THT Radial | Aluminum Electrolytic | Nichicon | Black Sleeve, Short | |||
C6G2, ? | 3+ | 100 µF | 25v | THT Radial | Aluminum Electrolytic | Nichicon | SME | Black Sleeve, Short |
Incomplete table
Replacement Parts
Basic PCB Name
RefDes | Qty | Compatible Part Number | Distributor Links
[ Preferred / Search ] | |||||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Digikey | Mouser | Farnell | LCSC | |||||||
1 | DZ-2R5D105T / 105DCN2R7S / JUWT1105MCD | Part | 🔎 | Part | Part | |||||
C2F1?, C8G_? | 2 | 10ZLQ3300MEFC10X25 / UHV1A332MHD / 10ZLH3300MEFC10X25 | Part | Part | Part | |||||
C1E1, C2E4, ? | 3 | UHD0J332MHD / EEU-FS0J332B / 10ZLH3300MEFC10X25 | Part | Part | Part |
If parts are not available or different selection is preferred, you can use the values in the Original Parts section to perform a parametric search.
Note: It is recommended to not replace the clock cap, it was only ever intended to store the date and time for an hour so not having it doesn't really affect anything.
Note 2: You can install a higher capacitance part to increase the storage time (up to 10F ) however this could potentially cause issues with the charging circuit.
Kits
- Digikey BOM: https://www.digikey.com/
Related Links
- Hardware Revisions - xboxdevwiki
- Mr.Mario2011 - How to Remove an Original Xbox Clock Capacitor (v1.0 - 1.5)